a wandering woman writes

Monday, April 18, 2005


And this is Franco in the Plaza Mayor. I don't think red's his color, do you?

It's also one of my favorite things about Salamanca. A small statement, perhaps, but it's a statement! No matter how many times they clean the poor guy up, somebody paints him again. That's his name, below the medallion (click to enlarge the photo and you might be be able to make it out) scratched out - of stone!! - beyond recognition.

A couple of weeks ago they took away the last statue of Franco left in Madrid, an enormous sculpture of the Generalíssimo on horseback. They told no one, worked for hours under cover of night and finally carried Franco and horse away in a truck, covered by a shroud. The next morning a group of ultra conservatives showed up to protest.

I have to admit one of the things I find hardest to relate to in Spain is this history -the recent memory of having lived in a dictatorship. But I like to think I'd paint the guy's medallion red. As often as I had to!



  • I think your observance of these details is very helpful. I´d heard they removed Franco statues under cover of night but I´d never heard of anybody actually knowing about it firsthand! Sometimes you have to give Spain credit for having come such a long way but other times you feel like giving them such a kick up the butt! Wonderful site, Mo.

    By Blogger Maureen Dolan, at 3:26 PM  

  • Thanks, Mo! Your comment just led me to your blog which led me to your blogroll..and a friend in Salamanca. I'll have to ask her what color el Generalissimo is these days....

    By Blogger wandering-woman, at 4:44 AM  

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