Erin go bragh

Just back. Caught a cold. Aaachoooo.

Ireland has changed a lot since I was last there in the early 90s, but then again, I'm not sure it's changed at all. I've still never travelled anywhere where people are so absolutely delighted to talk to strangers, to give directions, to throw in a story about their grandchildren, to laugh at everything and nothing, to ask you about yourself - in short, where people genuinely like people. For today, here's my:

Shorthand Ireland Report

4 breakfasts to die for, just like my Mom makes: eggs and ham and sausages and tomatoes and beans and potatoes and (ok this even my mom doesn't do) black and white puddings

Bread that weighs more than my camera. Much more.

1 flat tire, left front, changed with a smile by some anonymous roadside Irish lad, who appeared at just the right moment

1 left side mirror, cracked

1 wandering American who has yet to completely conquer driving on the left side of the road without running the left mirror and tire into things

2 Salmantinas who, gratefully, couldn't care less as long as they don't have to drive

1 fabulous afternoon at Johnnie Fox's, the highest and best-hidden pub in Ireland

An indeterminate number of Cliffs of Moher, hidden behind a curtain of the thickest fog I've ever seen, and wind that knocks you off your feet, still laughing


Kilmacduagh Monastery, County Galway.



County Clare