a wandering woman writes

Tuesday, August 29, 2006

Yesterday's post - End of the quiet

This post was written in my head Sunday and in Blogger yesterday, when the gods of photo upload decided not to cooperate. So here it is today, yesterday´s "yesterday's post". Be kind to this little post; it's been through a lot.

This is yesterday's blog post.

Yesterday was another sunny Sunday in Salamanca, the kind of sunny that left me wanting to snap pictures then report back here.

Yesterday was a quiet sunny Sunday in Salamanca. Eerily quiet, when I started up Calle San Pablo toward my Sunday El Pais about 10. Halfway to the kiosk, I was almost run over by my kiosk-man, who was racing down San Pablo like a madman.

He shouted something about taking advantage of a slow moment ("..mi niña", why will this 43 year old woman never tire of hearing that?) as he gently spun me out of his way. At the kiosk, the faithful amigo left to watch things during the "slow moment" set down his paper just long enough to climb inside the kiosk, accept my 1.90 euros and pass me out my El Pais Sunday magazine.

Three minutes later, heading back down San Pablo (this time directly toward my tostada) I was again greeted by the kioskman. He was racing again, greedily clutching two large cafés con leche in foil-covered glasses. And grinning ear to ear.

I savored my tostada outside a café facing San Esteban. I was alone until an older French couple decided to settle in with Le Monde, the man taking notes as he read.
With the Plaza Colon kioskman safely back at his station, San Pablo was deserted.

And so I savored the only August Salamanca Sunday morning I've left myself this year. With the students not due back till September, Spanish tourists and Salmantinos crowded on a coast somewhere, and lots of businesses closed, Salamanca is left to a few foreign tourists, the self employed (like me, the kioskman and the café owner) and the over 80. Or so it seems on a Sunday morning. Two middle aged Salmantinos were busy chatting up the café owner inside, and the old man with leg braces who carries himself up San Pablo's hill to the Plaza Mayor every Sunday morning passed me in a pair of oddly chic calf-length pants (with grey socks), his black boina at an equally chic 45 degree angle.

When I climbed up toward Plaza Anaya to make my way to the Huerto for a Sunday garden visit, I found both the Plaza and Patio Chico deserted. The raspy crawl I heard behind me turned out to be a huge golden maple leaf skipping up the cuesta.

I passed a long lazy morning in el Huerto de Calixto y Melibea, left to myself by the two or three equally solo wanderers I found there.

In a comment to my last post, Michelle mentioned she arrives Friday to begin her semester abroad in Salamanca. Something tells me she won't be alone. I'll be glad to see Salamanca turn back into a university town. Still, this is, I think, the end of the quiet.

Took a few pictures, since I had the place to myself...



  • Well... it looks as you are happy back at home.

    By Blogger Alfacharly, at 1:18 PM  

  • Ah yes, the students will soon descend on Salamanca and shatter the peace, lol. I'm not really the late-night party type, but everyone tells me that will change when I get to Spain and am introduced to the night life.

    Glad to see you are enjoying life back at home!

    By Anonymous Michelle, at 4:07 PM  

  • It does, Alfacharly Alex, doesn't it? ;) Got to hit you blog later - Have you been travelling?

    well, yes, it will (change when you get to Salamanca.) Out starts at midnight (unless you are old and civilized like me and much on some pinchos first) and carries you through till breakfast and light of day in Salamanca. So late night it is, endless dancing, lots of people, but you know the SPanish don't associate going out with drinking so much you hurt next day, so you might just take to it... Give it a try, I bet you look up and suddenly it's 6 am and you're still dancing. :)

    By Blogger wandering-woman, at 4:23 PM  

  • Lovely photos as always erin. :D

    By Anonymous AdriftAtSea, at 4:40 PM  

  • ¿Can I recomend a book to you?

    I came by "Ghosts of Spain" by Giles Tremlett in the FNAC the other day and bought it. I found it very interesting and read it in a couple of days.

    I'll write a little something about it in my blog.

    By Blogger Alfacharly, at 5:24 PM  

  • Delicious, absolutely delicious !!!

    Thanks for taking pity on a woman longing for this kind of thing from rainswept Belgium.

    By Blogger woman wandering, at 6:02 PM  

  • Rainswept Belga,I wrote the darn thing to torture you. What is this obsession you have with Sunday breakfasts in Spain? I ate Sunday breakfast with you in Belgium, and it was quite yummy...more so in fact.

    Alex, yes!! I'm glad you recommended that book, because I've been seeing it in the stores and hovering over it, deciding. I have a few books in line but I just added it to the buy list. Please do a post, yes....I have to post about an English book I picked up in Wales and read while on vacation -- by an 82 year old American novelist who wandered round Spain alone a few years ago. She dug into so much history, and so much detail about people like Santa Teresa and Unamuno, well and poor Juana La Loca, that she left me desperate to just dive into books on Spain and trips through Spain for a while....So now you've gotten me off to a good start! Thanks!

    By Blogger wandering-woman, at 6:20 PM  

  • Breakfasts in Salmanca, breakfasts in Tuscany ... in my mind's eye I see very little difference and hunger for both ... breakfast in Belgie ... sure, we waded through deep puddles and a deluge this Sunday.

    It's about the journey for the paper etc ... the location ... it's about everything ... hush, just let me be envious.

    By the way, did I mention your photographs ... I particularly loved the last one of this set. (Not bad since you're working without THE book ... gales of laughter from the kiwi)

    By Blogger woman wandering, at 6:35 PM  

  • I'm afraid, I'll be one of those silly tourists that might shatter the peace soon. No, I usually behave, far too old for that kind of party.

    Anyway, just found your blog and love your writing. I've also sent you an email about an interview.

    By Anonymous Anni Poulsen, at 8:24 PM  

  • I am so loving seeing your photos. This whole post was delicious.

    By Blogger Laura Young, at 3:25 PM  

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