Meanwhile, in the department of lost and found...
The loveliest viera (scallop shell) you've ever seen, a gift from the owner of the marisquería in Virgen del Camino, outside León. He answered my plea for whatever he was willing to feed a hungry peregrina at 730 pm with a delicious ración of Pulpo al Gallego, a chunk of crusty bread and a bottle of wine. Now I know why I never chose to buy a pre-drilled pre-painted "Camino de Santiago" ready-made souvenir shell for my trusty backpack. My ración of pulpo and a just-as-it-is viera were waiting just outside León.
A tremendous advertising opportunity for El Corte Inglés, when this peregrina marched into the central León store, backpack and all, rode the escalator to the 6th floor, and purchased a new hiking pole, to go. I threw in a pair of gloves (getting chilly in the morning out here!) and a new pair of after-walking socks. The highly amused salesman assured me I'd find another El Corte Inglés in the center of Santiago, should I feel like a post-Camino shopping spree.