The pilgrim has many needs...

Just before you walk into the town of Nájera in La Rioja, having already passed through Logroño on your step-by-step saunter to Santiago, you'll spend a few hundred meters strolling by a wall with an original poem scrawled across it - a long and lovely poem posted by a passing pilgrim.

And as you leave that poem behind, inspired by the magic of the verse-covered walls, message-bearing milestones, stone-steadied paper notes, yellow arrows, scallop shells and teetering rock sculptures that keep you on your path, you may glance to the left and stumble across another of the many things that make the Camino de Santiago real. Not pious. Just real.

A belly laugh.

If you glance over at just the right time your eye will meet this personal ad scratched in that same wall on the way to Nájera, maybe by the same lonely poet, maybe not.

"Pilgrim seeks girl."
And a phone number.