Found: in the guestbook of the Albergue San Miguel
"Before the new chapter can begin, the old chapter must be closed.
Change from being who you were to being who you are."
It's signed Paulo Coehlo, so I'll venture it's a quote, unless of course, Mr. Coehlo stopped by here last night....
One small request, Camino: Any chance "she who I am" could have a stronger right ankle than "she who I was"?